Disassemble the guide blocks and spacer assembly, and cut the rabbets across the bottoms of the blocks to the depth you just determined by 7⁄8″ wide. There are a number of things to check if you’re having problems. Sneak up on exactly the right amount of space for the saw- plate by deepening the rabbets a little at a time. Adjust the fit with paper (a typical sheet of 20 lb. Drill the three 1⁄4″ holes for the bolts through the stacked- up parts. Once you’ve decided on the mortise location and size, you’re ready to make the jig. The Morley Mortiser creates mortises for loose tenons to join parts together in multiple applications and angles. With this jig, you can pare all your mortise walls clean – hand cut or not. Make a simple jig to plane the UHMW strips to the same thickness. Once the mortise has been roughed out, clamp the jig back into position with the positioning strip against the reference edge and hold a 1⁄2″- or 5⁄8″-wide paring chisel with its back against the inside face of the jig. Hold the workpiece (and any spacers) in place against the rear fence and up against the bottom of the guide blocks. Note that the two faces of the fence touch to prevent the workpiece from falling into a gap between them. That should be the starting point for the depth of the rabbets. The unit can easily handle stock ranging from 1/2" to 1-1/2" thick and can cut multiple mortises in a single long piece. One refinement that can improve the usability of the jig is a small rare earth magnet (in a magnet cup) recessed flush into the surface of the upright of the jig, and a magnet washer likewise recessed into the tenon spacers. Because it is both difficult and dangerous to try to work such a small piece, mill up a larger strip that’s at least 12″ long and then cut it down to size. With mortises larger than that, I find I have better control by plunging the bit into the work with a plunge router rather than plunging the work onto the bit. But this approach does not work with every workbench and vise setup. Start by add- ing the distance from the mortise to the edge of the workpiece to 31⁄8″ (this assumes an 1⁄8″ table saw blade; or you can calculate 2 7⁄8″ plus the width of two kerfs) to come up with the width of the jig blank. A ledger strip let into the back of the bracket rests on the benchtop, and the width of the bracket makes it easy to clamp in most vises without racking. A guide block with angled sides will help get the shoulder angles just right. An even and steady touch will yield the best results. Clamp the angled wedge in place in conjunction with the tenon spacer for one cheek, then remove the spacer just as you would for a straight tenon. You’ll also need to make spacers to adjust for the tenon location on the workpiece. ink-jet paper is just under .004″ thick), masking tape (generally about .005″ thick, but somewhat compressible), or clear plastic packing tape (about .001″ thick) until the saw can slide between the guides with a little bit of friction. When the tenon fits correctly, you should be able to push it into the mortise with hand pressure or gentle taps from a mallet. The simplest way to do this is to cut the block in half, then separate the two halves the desired amount. With the tenon partially seated in the mortise, there should be enough friction that, if you lift the tenoned workpiece, the mating piece comes with it. This approach allows you to reference off of one face of the workpiece – much more accurate. Clamp to the router table a 1⁄4 Using a plunge router with the jig, woodworkers can quickly and easily cut both mortises and tenons ranging from 1/4" to 1/2" thick and from 1" to 3" wide. The 1⁄4″-thick by 1 1⁄2″-to 1 3⁄4″-wide strip should be screwed into a 1⁄4″-deep by 1⁄2″- or 5⁄8-wide rabbet. An easy way to come up with this dimension without measuring or fussing around is to take an offcut of the positioning strip and a similarly sized piece of scrap that is the same thickness as the tenon you want. Remember, because you cut both faces, raise the bit by half the amount you need to remove. The router table works well for mortises up to 1⁄4 Getting to the point where you can accurately check the fit requires a bit more work, however. Plunge the workpiece onto the spinning router bit while also maintaining pressure against the fence. Back the test piece with a scrap and make a pass on each face to produce the tenon. This jig is easy to make, easy to use and is the perfect DIY tool to make clean, precise and repeatable mortises every time. However, this does not impact our recommendations. The plane rides on ledges, which stop the cut at the desired thickness. And you still need good saw and good chisel technique to get the best results. The blank should be 1 1⁄2″ thick and 12″ long, although it’s helpful to have some extra length. While not necessary, it makes it easier to juggle things as you clamp the workpiece to the jig. Maybe. Bolt everything together, then check the fit of the saw back between the guide blocks. Masking tape can be used to make minor adjustments to thickness. Also, the jigs can certainly be used independently. Rip the blank into three strips: one equal in width to the distance from the mortise to the edge, one 5⁄8″ wide and the other 2 1⁄4″ wide. The back measurement, with a little added clearance, provides the thickness for the jig’s spacer. If the tenon is too thick, raise the bit slightly. A 4x4 makes a great backer block for this cut. Plane flush if necessary. Once the strips are the same thickness, it’s time to work on the rabbets for the plastic strips. A router plane makes quick and precise work of the rabbets for the UHMW guide strips. At this point, the jig is functional, and you could call it quits. When you think you’re close, drill and countersink the UHMW strips for the screws that attach the strips to the guide blocks. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects, How To Make Square Mortises For Faux Tenons, Repeated Mortise Tenon Joints Using a PantoRouter, How To Make A Translucent Transom with Veneer, Brighten dark areas with portable lighting, Homemade Jigs Conquer Crown Molding Measuring.
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